Day 57 - Tayakadin to Istanbul - THE FINISH!

Weather: Sunny (some clouds)
Location: Northern Turkey/Istanbul
Kilometres per day: 65
Delicacy of the day: Chicken Kebab
Flat Tires to date: 6 (not mine)
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=113454371950005704090.000436130d5a3d2881297
We have arrived! Istanbul is simply an amazing city – such a vibrant buzz. I can feel the vibes.

Early morning we have some more rolling hills accompanied by spectacular views of the Black Sea. We begin a descent barrelling through an overly planned town (Kemburgez) on the outskirts of Istanbul. I wonder if I am in Turkey or perhaps in ‘Anywhere, USA’. I spot a Starbucks and wonder are we still in the same country where I have seen shepherds herding their flock? I am told prices for the apartments start at $400k. We continue barrelling along to our destination through some busy roads past a rock quarry, garbage dump and then weaving our way towards Istanbul through wooded forests. With the forest, I could easily be in Appalachia. The litter is disappointingly abundant and I am thinking they really need ‘Give a Hoot, Don’t Pollute’ campaign! Today is some sort of holiday so there are bus loads of groups picnicking, escaping Istanbul for the day.

We slip into Istanbul dipping our cycles into the Bosphorus and quickly dissolve into ordinary tourist. The only evidence is the ankle tan and the sheer contentment of having conquered another continent pedal by pedal, inch by inch and hour by hour totalling 4400 Kilometres from London to Istanbul!

Having come all this way, we like to think around the world we are all so different but I am certain this is not the case. Life comes down to the simple things: Burger, Brew and Buddies! No matter where I have been on this trip and regardless of the standard of living, this is the common thread. The ‘burger’ may be a curry, a baguette, schnitzel, goulash or a kebab. The ‘brew’ may be English lager, French wine, American beer, a Mexican margarita, raki or just simply cay (that’s as in chay tea). And buddies are your friends and family. We catch up with a few old ABB friends who just finished their experience-plus cycle tour from St. Petersburg to Istabul (see Sultan Dan!).

Across Europe, we see the ‘3 B’s everywhere and nowhere more in abundance than here in Turkey. As for me, I conclude this tour having made a few new buddies and really looking forward to catching up with my old ones. Watch this space for a trip summary!

Day 56 - Saray to Tayakadin

Weather: Sunny/Cool
Location: Northern Turkey
Kilometres per day: 90
Delicacy of the day: Turkish Delight
Flat Tires to date: 6 to date (not me)

Countdown – just two days left. I am pinching myself - quite a feeling having come all the way across Europe. I don’t think of it much but riding through towns with my ‘Paris-to-Istanbul’ plate, the locals quickly remind us; large cheers, big waves and lots of horn honking. I am astounded and speechless with the generosity – a shepherd offering me bread while he is standing in raggedy old clothes and floppy shoes. As we are sitting in a small town, the local policeman stops by with fresh melon on a plate. We share jokes – a man is watering the fields with a big fire house while his wife is left weeding the detail – We all carefully note who is doing all the work! We share a laugh with them and ride away. All the riders have the same experience. Likewise, the drivers seem very excited but sometimes what appears to them as amusement can be quite frightening. A few of us experience ‘swing by drivers’ and feel the heat of the car. Travelling as a female, I do get a bit worried as a car full of men stop gawkingly at us. They are simply curious but we wait it out for Sir Hewes (of Gyor!) and travel as a trio. That works exceptionally well and I will remember Turkey simply for all their outrageous friendliness.

It was an easy morning and an afternoon of what felt like one big hill. Knowing there was just one more day, I was embracing and savouring it. And its at this point, we discuss the possibility of ‘EFI’ – Every Fabulous Inch! In spite of our lack of training, it is within our grasp. Quietly, we smell sweet success coming all the way from Paris, France to Istanbul, Turkey.

And then there’s camping, only photos can summarise our luxuries. But let’s just say, hopping across a continent in a tent brings a handful of challenges, especially camping in countries who quit doing it with the fall of communism. However, our tour group (we, the cycling capitalist) single handedly are trying one too many times to revive this so called sport in some very down and dingy places. I am tough enough to endure but also baffled, intrigued and amused realising something is not right – the accommodation budget seems to have disappeared in perhaps Hungary. On the upside, our last night is in a bush camp with a jerry-rigged shower turns out to be one of the best sites. Great views and a great sunset!

Day 55 - Kırklarelı to Saray

Weather: Sunny and cool (just 25C\80F)
Location: Northern Turkey (110k from Istanbul)
Kılometres per day: 76
Elevation climb: Not too much (lovely rollıng hılls=
Delicacy of the day: Potatoes
Flat Tires to date: 6 (not mıne and I now have my fıngers crossed!)

We traded heat for headwınds. The temperatures have dropped dramatically (5C\40F). With headwınds of 24ESE, whılst challenging, we all agree it ıs a faiır trade!

I am really stunned by just how frıendly the Turkısh are to us. We are once agaın led out of town by the Kırklarelı Mınıster of Tourısm on hıs bıcycle. Kids are really happy to see us. Throughout the day, all the riders have great experiences. At one point, Lois and I pass a roadside ditch screamıng ınto the wind and there in the ditch, two old men are laughing and screamıng along with us. A truck stops and offers a few of the riders a lift to İstanbul along wıth a Watermelon. As we are taking a break, a middleage couple comes rıding up to us ın their tractor. They step out and the woman comes over and gives us a greeting on the cheeks. We try to communicate. With very little material goods, she is offering us food and together they review our map. The friendliness is both genuine and very special.

Alongside the roads is an abundance of military presence on manouveures, perhaps a reminder that we are nearing the Middle East and Turkey does border Iraq and Syria. Not sure.

Well, I have seen many things on this trip but İ now have wıtnessed a first hand account of being 'stubborn as a mule'. Wıth a herd of sheep and goats beıng led across the road by a farmer in hıs cart, we are amused by seeıng this mule flat out refusıng wıth butt down to go forward screechıng agaınst its drivers ınstructions wedgıng hımself ınto the cart for at least 200 feet. Eventually, the crack of the whip wins out. For me, todays lesson is that in modern day we use these expressions but perhaps we never think too much about the factual and very lıteral relevance.

Day 54 - rest day - Kırklarelı

A very relaxing day... and thankfully breezy.

For both the locals and travellers alıke!

Temperatures have cooled and we are holdıng are breathes wıth regards to headwınds.... Let's hope for an Irısh Blessıng... 'May the road rise up to meet you. May the wind always be at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face...' Three days to go!!!

Day 53 - Malko Turnovo (Bulgarıa) to Kırklarelı, Turkey

NOTE WELL: I am stunned that these two photos were taken wıthın 15 mıles of each other.

Weather: Sunny (40+\110+)
Location: Border of Bularıa and Turkey
Kılometres per day: 51
Elevation climb: tbc
Delicacy of the day: Mousaka (eggplant)
Flat Tires to date: 6 (not mıne)

On one side of the hotel, cyclists were kept awake by the Bulgarıan `all night barking' dogs. We were lucky enough to be on the Rooster side giving us a pleasant alarm clock followed by screeching donkeys.

With just 7k to the border, we bid Bulgaria farewell after a good long climb. It’s the first border that we cross on top of a ridge line. After several days of intense climbing and lıke many experienced cyclısts, we are now rıdge lıne experts – once you see the power lines you are near the top of the ridge (and there's a downhıll ahead). As we go by the border, there is a green zone and barbed wire fence. Unlike Mexico I don’t see anyone beating it to get to either side.

The border crossing included Visas for all (including my first stamp in my Irish Passport). For EU passports, it’s just 15 euros but for the Canadians, it’s 40euros. Unfortunately, Josh who is supporting us along with Myra are stopped in their rental car at the border. Fortunately, Myra is fetched by Randy and makes it across walking to the van. The roads in Turkey improve immediately with some smooth rolling hills but with temperatures rising to 43 (116), the pavement is getting gooey making it more difficult to ride. The terrain changes in a blink of the eye! At the border, we are riding through shaded woods reminding me of New England and within a few kilometres, we are in brutally barren dry lands. With a short day of just 51k, we were finished by noon.

Already, I feel a good sense about Turkey and its people. Whılst it is noticeably poorer compared to Bulgaria and more urban than Romania, the local tourıst board ıs making great efforts to welcome us - a free cave tour and a dınner outing. Little kids are cheering and wavıng us on into town. We see mostly men sitting in cafes and in the parks. Woman are mulling about doing chores. The music is different in a good way, a welcome relief from the Bulgarian boom boxes. We are hearing the chanting in the Kirklareli mosque. Although, I am really disappointed to realise that it is a recorded message that comes on at intervals, namely sunset and sunrise as well as a few other tımes durıng the day.

Day 52 - Pomorıe to Malko Turnovo

Weather: Sunny and HOT...
Location: Bulgarıa- Headıng ınland from Black Sea Coast
Kılometres per day: 105k
Elevation climb: tbc - not too bad
Delicacy of the day:
Flat Tires to date: 6 (not mıne)

We are off to a slow start today wıth Lois taking an early snooze and wıth Hewes no where to be found, we are out of the gate a good 30 mınutes behınd the pack!

As I’ve mentioned before, I really dread Highway riding but for this trip, it has to be done and so I will do it. We have an initial 40ks of Highway riding and in my head, I ponder the very real possıbılıty of getting hit – what’s my strategy? How would I want to land? Is there any point thinking about it? I seek some advise and the only answer is to ride as fast as you can. For me, this is not very fast. So I’ve decided I need 9 lives to survive cycling along Highway 9.

We are cycling to just beyond the town of Burgas before cutting of onto a quieter road. Highway 9 is somewhat narrow and I am precarıously balanced on the white line sucking pollution. Once again, I am focussed and hanging on to the white line for dear life hoping that every driver barrelling along is going to carefully drive around me (and the 25+ other riders). I wear my yellow jacket for extra visibility and with the heat already at 38, I am sweltering. The heat creates a haze across the horizon.

Burgas is an industrial town with a profusion of pollution. Any sign of environmental friendly regulation appears non-existent as smoke bills freely into the air. As I am breathing, I can feel the irritants landing in my throat and I think of the health of the local folks. Thankfully, we escape onto Highway 89, a pleasant but hilly ride to Malko Turnovo. The countryside is very dry and there are signs of grass fires, although we can’t tell if they are accidental or intentional.

We come across an abandoned farm house wıth horses roamıng - ıt feels lıke a scene from the old wıld west - so much quıet beauty but taınted wıth some sadness as I am wonderıng what tragıc story lurks behınd the scenes.

Later, we see Isabelle who is raving about her afternoon nap. With temperatures once again topping over 112, we are wilted and the idea is now firmly planted. We pull off and before you know it, we are all asleep for the better part of an hour.

We arrive into Malko Turnovo, just a small town (maybe 2,000 people). Life here is simple as kids are playing about, animals (chickens, donkeys, dogs and cows) are wondering and the adults are sitting with drinks. We are put up in a dormitory, a place to sleep. As you can see, no hotel poınts for thıs (even the Holıday Inn Express Burton looks lıke a 5 star compared to thıs). But hey, this is fine by me as there are no other alternatives nearby. I sleep well.

Day 51 - Varna to Pomorie

Weather: Sunny... Scorcher!
Location: Bulgarıa\Black Sea Coast
Kılometres per day: 108
Elevation climb: tbc (lots ...c 4400 feet)
Delicacy of the day: Water!
Flat Tires to date: 6 (not mıne)

With the sight of the Black Sea, the trip mentally ended for me at Varna, a lovely and vibrant town! However, not so fast! We have 100k plus to go today (and c. 350k plus to Istanbul) and it is physically very challenging. The 4 Hs (hills, heat, hydration and hellacious roads) are hovering!

The morning is full of climbing although with relatively easy grades of 4-7% and good pavement. I am clinging to the white line of Highway 9 – focus, focus, focus, pray, pray, pray and with a little luck I shall see another day!

But wow, the real challenge came ın the afternoon. Expecting a 15k climb which actually turned out to be 25ker in some unbearable heat! At times, heading down the hills, my face could be in a convection oven passing through the heat waves. It is sheer tenacıty, grit and determination to get us over the top and it’s at this point in the trip, any form of entertainment is required. We initially started out with the Princeton fight song moving onto more sophisticated songs such as Do-Re-Me and of course Climb Every Mountain (from Sound of Music). With such amusement, we agree today was a really a fun day of riding, in spite of the heat, hills and distance.

For most of the day, we are no more than 5-10k from the coast heading south. We catch spectacular glimpses of the Black Sea, both near and far. Comparing this to Spain, France and Portugal, we conclude the beauty here is still retained (e.g. there is still large stretches of land unspoilt by High rises). There are beach front Holiday Homes starting at 37k euros (on spec only of course!). With billboards of Golden Sands Hotel, we know the English and Germans holiday makers can’t be far way. Sure enough, they are crawling and mauling about the town of Nessibitar. Nessibitar is a historical beach front that was conquered by just about every civilisation over many hundreds of years up until the 18th century when at some point it became a tranquil tourist destination. The beaches are jammed packed with pink beer bellies! Easyjet has landed!

Having a beer in Nessibitar, the locals are inquisitive about our trip. The waitress presents to me a necklace as I remind her of a dearly departed friend. I am sceptical of a scam coming my way. Lois and Hewes give the nod so I accept the necklace and we all share a happy moment. Leaving a generous tip, I cycle away nervously thinking why I was so unfairly hesitant with her genuine act of kindness? From the guidebooks, I have been warned to be a bit leery. For this, I feel a wee bit guilty.

We are once again in for an accommodation treat – a Bulgarian Family Holiday Home, aka nasty tenement block. I’ve surrendered to the Eastern European trip accommodation situation and like many, am counting the days. With fantastic resort towns nearby, I ponder the accommodation selection. Most of the group is feeling the stress of the heat, tougher cycling (hills) and sımply the tougher Eastern European condıtıons but I wonder why we need the additional hassle of sub-standard accommodation. Just rather unpleasant and probably unnecessary as nearby are lovely fantastic beach resorts. We are on ‘bed-bug alert’ which means I will somehow jerry-rig my room to sleep in my tent and sleeping bag taking all precautions. There is a shared but belated birthday celebration for Li and Bob to dıstract us. We clean our bikes for the last time. Anything to help us forget where we are sleepıng.

Day 50 - Varna

Sure enough, I catch an amazing sunrise. To wake up with an incredible view of the Black Sea puts a smile on my face. Life is good! A rest day is well needed – I feel even more exhausted than when I ran the London Marathon – every inch of my body aches from the last 4 days of riding.

Varna has a great European and seaside feel – Music plays in many of the cafes and seaside life is relaxed. Tranquillity is in the air. The beach is ‘body-to-body’ jam packed. It makes the Jersey shore look uninhabited. The water looks inviting. Whilst not at our final destination, we will have the official wheel dip here!

Bulgaria and Varna have quite a history bouncing between Turks, Russians, Greeks, Macedonians, Austria-Hungarians and simply Bulgarians. Under communist rule (although with some competitiveness) until 1991, it seems Bulgaria is another country to be benefiting from the EU. Although (according to the guide book), there are issues with corruption as well as high unemployment and inflation. As touring cyclist, this is invisible to us and we are possibly slightly ignorant.

Generally everything seems very relatively inexpensive here – big hotel suite: 30 Euros, Beer: $.90.

Day 49 - Sumen to Varna

Weather: Sunny, 42/114
Location: Northern Bulgaria heading to the Black Sea
Kilometres per day: 105
Elevation climb: 861m/Max grade: 11%
Delicacy of the day: Great Lunch Sandwiches (best yet!)
Flat Tires to date: 6 flat tires (not mine)

Following two long days, we are given news of a reprieve; easy rolling hills to the coast. Yippee! The morning was just as predicted – the terrain was beautiful – very large farm fields with wheat and wilted sunflowers but great views across the plains. The locals are very friendly cheering us on as we go through the villages, assisting with directions which are very welcome.

Generally, Bulgaria seems richer (seeing tractors for farming) and cleaner (less garbage along the road) but also seems to have its social challenges. Across the horizon, there is the ever presence of pollution. In each of the towns, there is a mix of modern day and must haves old ways (horses grazing in apartment complexes). Then there is the sad business sprinkling the highways –in desolate areas. Young woman are seen waiting, often alone and at times dangerously stepping in front of the high speed rolling trucks. As I cycle by looking into their eyes, there’s a level of sadness shared between us knowing the job they have to do to make a living. I cycle on with a wee bit of guilt knowing life has not been fair to them. Industrialisation is everywhere - big ship building yards and large quarries sprinkle the landscape. Nearly 50% of Bulgaria's agriculture export is Tobacco. Smoking is prevalent everywhere - internet and cafes alike.

Not quite as easy as predicted, the afternoon turns out to be a surprise of effort. Its bloody 4Hs of riding; Headwinds, Hills, Heat and Hellacious road surface (so I made the 4th up)! With just 20k to go, I am feeling mentally defeated. I am pedalling but not moving. Should we just wait a few hours for the wind and heat to die down? But the wonderful thing about cycling is that conditions are constantly changing and this time, thankfully for the better. We manage around the bend and miraculously, the wind is gone, we are heading down hill albeit on tough pavement and moving again! Varna here I come! We arrive to the Black Sea – a trip milestone. Lois and I have now cycled from the English Channel to the Black Sea. I look at a map and just can’t believe it. Now on the East Coast, I opt out of dinner as I am scheming and dreaming of my early morning to wake for a beautiful sunrise!

Day 48 - Veliko Turnouvo to Sumen

Weather: Sunny 42/112
Location: Northwest Bulgaria (heading across the northern section)
Kilometres per day: 154k
Elevation climb: 1724 m/ 13% grade
Delicacy of the day: Water... can't get enough of it
Flat tires to date: 4 (not mine)

Well this was billed as the ‘Big’ day! Our longest and toughest day of the trip! According to my biking expert, in official terms this can be considered a Century. With a combination of 154 kilometres plus over 5800 foott climb, we can technically add 5 miles for the climb to attain a Century (100 mile ride). Regardless of the experts, I am adding this to my Century count (number 9).

The day was not to be an easy one with the first 8k up a hill varying from 8-9% to a 13% grade. Mentally, it pulls at me – is it going to be like this all day? If so, I can’t do it? If so, I need the bloody SAG wagon! But it’s so early in the morning, what’s the point? So I keep cycling. As it turns out, there are two more long but less intense climbs before lunch. Just before our afternoon rest stop (at 117k), I am starting to doubt myself – I am exhausted and going around another corner to encounter another hill is a debilitating thought. How many more? I once again briefly contemplate the SAG but get nudged by Lois to say ‘We can do it’! I am thinking to myself that all my fellow riders (Lois, Hewes and Agnes) are older than me and for that reason alone I must be able to do it. Coincidentally, I receive an email on the fact that a good rider is not determined by age or weight but rather has a high strength-to-weight ratio and realise, I am obviously a weakling. I ponder on our trip across USA last year – how did I ever manage that? I joke with Lois asking ‘whose idea was this trip anyway’? Only to be reminded that it was all mine. But in the words of Winston Churchill 'Never,never, never give up!' I will not give up! We are determined to keep smiling (see photo).

We are (rightfully) warned that it is an afternoon of rolling hills. Reaching 135k, I regain my cycling confidence – now I am past the point of thinking ‘if I make’ but I turn to a positive thought of ‘when I make it’. Triumphant but exhausted, we arrive into camp.

Yellow tape around poles provides us crucial navigational assistance. Entering Sumen, I am desperate to find them but they are sparse. It seems the locals have taken great joy in removing them (or was it possibly the Aussies as we are informed they appeared in camp with a handful!!!). Sighting yellow tape can mean the difference between getting to camp or going off on an excursion. Today was no day for an excursion!

Sumen appears a very poor town and struggling with urban planning. We see horses amongst the apartment blocks. Needless to say, I am followed into camp by a few suspicious locals who like the look of my bike. The campsite is a ‘freebie’ so you get what you pay for and in this case, it is an unsightly polluted pond and overgrown camp area. The police stop by to warn us to watch our stuff and lock our bikes, not just once but three times. Luckily, there’s a beautiful hotel high above us that most sneak off to get some rest. I sleep well.




With this day behind us, I realise the trip is coming to an end – it’s coasting (along to the Black Sea) from here and then heading through Turkey with daily mileage decreasing. With 6 more riding days, time is running out. I am still baffled as to why I am finding this cycling so much tougher than last year's trip across the states. I can only conclude it's the combination of road conditions (very rough), camping and lack of Dairy Queen's!

Day 47 - Ruse to Veliko Turnouvo

(note: paper hat this worker is wearing - ingenuity at best - beating the heat!)

Weather: 46/110
Location: Over Bulgarian Border (northern area)
Kilometres per day: 117k
Elevation climb: 1052m /Max climb: 11%
Delicacy of the day: Watermelon (never liked it but today am a convert!)
Flat Tires to date: 4 (not mine)

A surprise route change today: A highway shortcut. After 40 plus days on the road, some are delighted with this idea as many riders are hot, bothered, and tired but only a few of us are disappointed. For me, riding on Highway is just a slog and something to be avoided at all costs. Ice cream and hotel sleeping do us wonders so we daringly opt for the ‘off-piste’ longer but scenic route. Initially, this becomes quite an amusing adventure as we spend the first hour trying to cross a ‘manual’ rail crossing (it is blocked far in advance of the train) and we unsuccessfully seek directions from a local. Not only is there a language barrier here but with a different alphabet (Cyrillic), there is little hope of a sensible conversation. ( A google sample of Cyrilic: Нагласете началната Google страница, съобщенията и бутоните да се показват на избрания от Вас език чрез страницата Предпочитания.Google предлага своя интерфейс на следните езици). Needless to say, our attempt fails miserably as we flag a car down for assistance and the situation turns sour when the driver realises this is not a money-making opportunity for him. At this point, we decide we should high-tail it out of his neighbourhood and ride back to the dreaded highway. After a few Ks on the highway, we are feeling the stress: tough pavement, narrow shoulder and trucks bombarding down upon us. I decide it’s a good time to say those morning prayers; they come in as a handy distraction! Thankfully, we get a text message from the Aussies who are way ahead and have found the side road. Getting onto a side road was just the ticket – smooth road, serenity and scenery. It’s a beautiful ride.

Forced back on the highway after about 70ks, the afternoon really heats up! It’s a blistering 46C/110F plus. It feels at times that my head is in a Pizza oven. Very Hot! My mouth is perched. Water bottles get hot so quick and it’s a real task to drink hot water. We stop at every gas station we see. It’s a grind. We arrive in the historic town of Veliko Turnovo. With warnings that there is no shade at camp we take it easy in the town. Veliko was once the capital of Bulgaria and is adourned with Churches and a Byzantine castle that has been rebuilt many times over the centuries. Geographically protected with a river and high hill, it provides a spectacular setting. We sit down for a drink and it takes us a long time to move. Hope they hold dinner for us. As it turns out, the campsite is part of a hotel which has a fantastic pool. We start taking in lots of fluid and food in anticipation of tomorrow’s ride!

The environment has changed quite a bit – the terrain is much dryer – wilted sunflowers (see our impersonation) and dry wheat fields can be seen for miles. We can smell forest fires in the air and see the haze across the skyline. Farming life appears slighter richer than Romania as we see tractors and even a bit of irrigation technology. Likewise, we see fewer horse and buggies and those that we see are donkey driven! Village life seems more scattered with apartment blocks and less rural. Compared to Romanians, the local Bulgarian people have a genuine look of contentment that they are willing to share with us.

Day 46 - Bucharest to Ruse

Weather: HOT HOT HOT.... 46C (that's 122F!!!) when in the sun....
Location: Bulgaria
Kilometres per day: 98
Elevation climb: nil...
Delicacy of the day: Ice Cream
Flat Tires to date: 4 (not mine)

With hectic traffic and hopes of beating the heat, we rose at 4:00 am for a group ride out of town. With 20k to go, we motored through Bucharest relatively quickly and safely as a group catching in the sites as we departed. Leaving Romania today was uneventful, actually very flat and dull. We certainly will will not miss the barking Romanian dogs or the rough roads. Although today some very cute puppies were tearing my heart out at a petrol station. Tugging at Hewes' shoes and giving us begging and desperate looks we wonder if they could join our party. Perhaps one in each of my panniers?

Crossing the border to Bulgaria, we came over the Friendly Bridge. A bit of irony as relations with Bulgaria and Romania have and are not always the best. With big Chlorine and Sodium factories on the Romanian side, Bulgaria is not always amused with the amount pollution. Whilst the roads are no better, there is a noticeable difference in wealth - better cars, better supermarkets and better food!

Arriving in Ruse, we get word that it is a 'primitive campsite - one toilet/one shower and lumpy ground' (see photoe). I think it was Einstein who defined 'insanity as doing the same thing and expecting different results'. Today, I've decided that I am not insane! I am not going to another nasty campground and think it may be okay! For me, this vacation is about enjoying Europe, the outdoors, the journey and the destination. It's not about unnecessarily enduring pain and unpleasant environments and thinking that is an adventure! We (Hewes, Lois, Ginny and I) opt to get rooms in a great Ruse hotel. Best $50 I've spent this trip. Despite the blistering heat and still not feeling well, it turns out to be a wonderful afternoon. Hewes runs into a local chap that knows the tour leaders suggesting we go to a concert on the Danube. We also see a newspaper with a feature article on the Orient Express (all written in Cyrilic - more on this later). The evening was topped off by the best ice cream I have had yet in Europe!

Forecast for the next few days is 40+/110+ temperatures and we are doing our two toughest rides (although tour mechanic Peotr advises us that Day 42 was tougher due to roads).

Day 45 - Bucharest - Rest Day

A good night’s sleep is just the cure! I recuperate quickly (just two hours of sleep) and I am back to my jovial self. We have dinner at an amazing beer hall whose interior has the detail of a baroque style church built in 1879 and we can only imagine what the atmosphere would have possibly been like back then.

Unfortunately, with the presence of the Ceausescu regime, time has not been so kind to Bucharest. It is sprawling city but not a pretty one. Some claim it’s the Paris of Eastern Europe. I would not give it that much kudos. During the Ceausescu regime (up to 1989) great efforts were put into building some behemoth buildings. However, his confidential 'meglomaniac' master plan was shared with only the master architect, and as a result the output is a mishmash of all sorts of designs (gothic, baraque, modern and anything in between). And whilst great efforts were put into the buildings, the city planning is amuck with a lack of sidewalks and street crossing going into cement walls. Traffic is chaotic. There is a lively buzz to the city but with a hint of being haunted by its recent past (e.g. bullet marks in buildings).

Day 44 - Gaestic to Bucharest

Weather: Sunny Getting very hot (110F/40C)
Kilometres per day: 82
Delicacy of the day: Romania Potato
Flat tires to date: 4 (not mine)

Out of Gaesti, it is a boring flat but of course bumpy ride ride to Bucharest. I am still not well. Although I am fortunate to be in the good company of Lois (a nurse) and Isabella (mom) who take good care of me.

Lois and I opt out of breakfast and stumble on a fantastic bakery (never know it from the outside). Ahead of other riders, we flag them down advertising the ‘best bakery since Germany’ in Titu!

Seeing our fellow cyclists and the locals, I contemplate the stark contrast of life's journey! Keeps me pondering for the day.

All the locals are busy labouring the fields of potatoes and thankfully, there is some signs of them working on a new highway - high praise to them as they are out in the high temperatures 110 F/40C with just shovels and no shade! Ouch!

The cycling is just a trudge to town. Bucharest is busy so there is group ride from about 12k out – we weave through heavy and hectic traffic as a convoy wedged between our support trucks. I am ecstatic to see our basic but great hotel Ibis!

Day 43 - Rominicu Valcea to Gaesti

Weather: Sunny

Location: Middle (southern bit) heading to Bucharest
Kilometres per day: 111k
Elevation climb:
Delicacy of the day:
Flat Tires to date: 4 (not mine)

With a live band wedding reception lasting until 4:45 AM, a train coming by at 5:00 am and lions roaring by 6:00 AM, I am sleep deprived. I am exhausted. My back is on fire with pain. Is it the rock pile? Is it the physically beating? Or is it possibly the flu? I can only think ‘Gambatti’ – fight, endure and never give up -thanks to a blog comment, I am motivated!. I can’t bare the thought of a stuffy SAG wagon so I opt for a slow ride.

The ride is uneventful, with a few climbs in the morning (thankfully on good but busy roads) – not feeling well, I am focussed on the destination and getting some sleep. It’s a hotel filler (in lieu of camping) tonight and I am filled with a bit of fear and trepidation of the Romanian flea/bed bug (repeat of Hotel Seminic) and opt for putting my tent on the hotel room balcony. With sleep deprivation, I now am running a full fledged fever. I am desperate for Bucharest – good shower, good bed and some good food.

I am struggling with my expectations and experience of Romania – all the guide books warn of scams and petty thieves. I am on ‘high-alert’ and look at the locals with suspicion but then when you meet them; they are genuine, friendly and kind. With very little, they offer us fresh fruit from there trees. With a flat tire in front of a house, the chap offered us his repair kit. We have lots of beeps and waves. Although we have had some odd incidents – a man in a car handing money out the window, a man asking to take our photo and a woman was offering us a seat in the shade. Of the 3, we take the seat in the shade and communicate creatively with sign language to share names, a good laugh and we cycle on. Our biggest issue is that we do find it strange that in most of the shops they do not give change unless you ask! What’s that about? My guard remains in place.

Day 42 - Targo Jiu to Rominicu Valcea

Weather: Sunny
Location: Middle of Romania (southern part) heading to Bucharest
Kilometres per day: 130k (not the 109 reported in the book!)
Elevation climb: just shy of 5000 Feet
Delicacy of the day: Avocado
Flat Tires to date: 4 flat (not mine)

Well camping last night was again neither ‘comfort’ nor ‘adventure’ as the tour advertises but just an awful halfway house. Having slept on a rock pile, my back is on fire with pain. We (Lois, Hewes and I) decide its time for attitude adjustment immediately and before leaving town, we stop for coffee. Wow, the wonders of a cup-of-joe and a bathroom!

With just 109k and with a little procrastination, we naively set out 8:48am. We calculate our efforts of speed and distance and are not the least bit worried about time or the day ahead. Although we will not regret our coffee break, we may regret the sluggish start. It turns out to by a very brutal day – killer combintation of hills, road conditions, misleading distance (21k longer than expected) and physical exhaustion!

Today is no ordinary day of climbing – it is a day of pure punishing pain! Why? It all comes down to road conditions. The Romanian roads come in only 3 categories (4th is not an option):
1- Busy and good pavement (rare)
2- Busy and nasty pavement
3- Not busy and nasty pavement
4- Not busy and not nasty pavement (Not in Romania)

Today, we experience the worst to date – Option 3 - not busy with nasty pavement. There is simply no sign of effort to maintain the road. Seeing signs of chains for truck tires, its obvious the combination of neglect, weather and trucks have had there devastaing effect. At times, I feel I am mogul-skiing on my bike as I hit these bumps. Each bump reverberates through my entire body. At one point, I push my pedal down, land on a lump and bounce myself physically 3 inches to the left miraculously landing upright and still in control. I am taking a physical battering. I stop occasionally to check my wheel is still round and my teeth are still there. The only benefit at this point is that there is no longer an ounce of flab on my bum or arms as it has all been shaken off. We cycle this for 72k. Ouch!

There are only more challenges to come as it turns out the Route Map is off by over 20k and the total distance for the day is actually 130k. I am starting to feel irritable... where is the trip planning? How can you be off by so much? In my head, I start thinking of my blog and my rant at Randy (our tour leader). Fortunately (for Randy, I think), the road conditions ease up in the afternoon and I am in the good and amusing company of Hewes and Lois. With sheer determination, we pick up our pace arriving to our destination (close enough) by 6pm.

It has been another typical day of sites – horse carts, killer cows (of which we now give wide berths to), fresh fruit (plums) and groups off to do the farming. There is a local fair by the lunch truck selling just about anything, including rugs. We can’t seem to get enough photos of the horse carts!

But there is no let up for me today- I am served a surprise summons to 'Dish Duty (without Dishboy Don!). Still to come is an enduring and punishing night with a concoction of barking dogs and a local traditional Romanian wedding (aka loud music) in our camp (feels like it is in my tent). No rest for the wicked!

Day 41 - Baile Herculean to Targu Jiu

Weather: Sunny, crisp and clear
Location: Middle of Romania
Kilometres per day: 112k
Elevation climb: 3500 Feet
Delicacy of the day:
Flat Tires to date: 4 (not mine)


It is was spectacular ride out of Baile Herculane climbing and winding our way up a canyon with sharp contrast of exposed rock, lush green trees and bright blue sky. With cool air, it was a gorgeous morning and each day I find myself daydreaming more and more of the beauty surrounding me. I lose track of time! With an initial 50k climb, it is slow going but with such wilderness, I savour the moment.

To date, we have seen chickens, ox, horse and geese crossing the road. Each day we peacefully weave, duck and cycle; weave, duck and cycle. We’ve become proficient with this pattern of riding. However, this was no ordinary day for Ginny (Australian)! With rolling hills and tree covered roads, she began her descent trailing her sister. As she rounded a bend, the cow attacked! Okay, so we think it bolted in her path. To her misfortune, she blindsided it (although the facts are vague) and in this case the cow did not budge but rather bent and mangled her bike (broke the front fork). Ginny gracefully switched vehicles, riding the cow until she landed herself in a ditch. Luckily, although badly bruised, she survived the alleged attack. As an Aussie ‘copper’, she took finger prints at the scene and we have photo-id the perpetrator! It certainly has changed our perspective on the innocent cows roaming the roads. Beware!

Out of cell phone range and 40k rolling hills to the lunch truck, it required Team Gorman (Julian /brother) to ride ahead. But once Julian was at the support truck, there was further mayhem on the facts. As it was described in an Aussie accent, it required a bit of an interpreter. She hit a ‘caw’…. Is that a car? Or a cow? She was quickly rescued but the bike is out of commission. It was a tough day for 'Team Gormans' of the Great Amazing Race as sister Moira was stopped in her tracks with not a cow but a flat!

With the excitement of the day over, we descend for 25k plus and level out. We continue to be intrigued by the rural country-side life – families reaping the fields with sickles and building dome-like haystacks. In this part of Romania, we also see much more horse-drawn hay, usually topped with the family moving to and from the field. Whilst the work appears physically harsh, the people have a genuine look of tranquillity and contentment.

With camping facilities basic (port-o-let) and no water, we make the most of the river with a quick dip, only to be distracted by an abundance of stray dogs. With a lack of hygienic facilities, my tent on a rock pile and being serenaded by tacky Euro-vision music, this campsite receives a nil rating (nil being the very worst). I contemplate sleeping in a field nearby.

Day 40 - Baile Herculean - Rest Day

No plans for today apart from cleaning bikes and possibly ‘spa’ing. Baile Herculean is a resort town working on its revival - it will need quite a bit work and possibly a certain level of investment. Looking at the buildings, I am sure it was amazing in its prime – the buildings are massive, decorative but fully dilapidated. I look at the potential and the entrepreneur in my veins is pumping. This place could be a thriving and vibrant holiday destination and I am sure in 5 years time will look significantly different, all for the better. There are positive signs as there are new hotels popping up on the edge of town.

Day 39 - Resita to Baile Herculean

Weather: Misty rain, chilly to overcast afternoon
Location: Middle of Romania
Kilometres per day: 124
Elevation climb: 4400 FEET
Delicacy of the day: Plums
Flat Tires to date: 4 Flat tires (not mine)



Today was our most challenging but rewarding day yet. The combination of 124k along with climbing hills, feisty dogs, rain and rough road conditions, we are tested. The day starts with a 20k climb out of town followed by 18k of rolling hills topping out with 11% grades in various points. We then enjoyed a wonderful descent and followed by a late afternoon (relatively easy) ascent into Bailre Herculean, a sulphur smelling spa town.


We realise the rain is a mixed blessing as it provides cool temperatures and refreshing mist as we climb 4400 feet, skirting the Volcan Mountain range. With full rain gear on, I feel my legs weighted and feeling like I am wearing wet jeans requiring a frustrating amount of extra effort. With the mist to cool us, it was a wonderful day for those of us well prepared for the cooler weather. Thankfully, we had our full rain gear on call and within range.